KulayRaw Fresh Market & Bisayan Lunch

year-round; best Sat mornings

Tacloban's weekend market brings Leyte's inland produce — binagol (coconut-taro pudding), moron (chocolate suman), fresh puso ng saging — to the city. Bisayan cuisine in Tacloban centres on seafood: paksiw na isda, kinilaw and the Waray-Waray version of bulad (dried fish) eaten with white rice and calamansi. Tip: the wet market on Zamora Street opens before dawn; the best vendors sell out by 9am. Leo's Lechon on Fatima Village road is the local consensus for lechon.